We decided to meet in Rome to help inaugurate Sarah's European adventure. Granted, one can
only do so many things in Rome
in two days, so most of the time we went our separate ways, but it was neat to meet at the beginning and end of the day.
Ian and I went to Rome in late 2006 (see 2 links at top), so we had already seen the big stuff -- the Colosseum, the Vatican, etc. There were a lot of B-list sights we hadn't gotten to, though. First was the Diocletian Baths, which we surveyed on our way to meet up with Sarah & Co:
The inside had long ago been converted to a church -- an amazingly spacious one. What I liked about this place in particular was that they made great use of natural light, and the place seemed to be a showcase for some more up-to-date art. I only took a picture of one, though -- a giant head of John the Baptist, blindfolded for his execution.
We met up, toured the ornate but creepy Capuchin crypts, then walked to the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain.
The vendor tried to get us to buy it by calling it a gift. It didn't work -- we returned it.
We split after lunch so they could check out some catacombs on the outskirts of town. Instead, Ian and I went to Castel Sant'Angelo, a catacomb/papal fortress/museum on the other side of the Tiber. Angels, of course, were the theme:
Since the deal in Rome is you run into 10 landmarks on your way to the one you're actually seeking, we decided on our way back to the Pantheon to swing by the Bernini fountain, the one with the 4 rivers that Dan Brown writes about in Angels & Demons. Last time it had been fenced off for renovations.
Bernini's interpretation of an armadillo. Fellow Texans, I leave this to you ...
Then we slogged back to the Pantheon, our meeting place, for capuccinos at a restaurant we had visited on our previous trip. They're still just as good. Next to us, an Italian man and a British woman were conversing with the help of dictionaries. When she stepped away, he leaned over and told us their story: they had studied together in France and tried to meet up in the past, but this was their first get-together since school -- 13 years ago. He left unsaid what he had hoped. Alas, it wasn't looking so good.
While waiting for Sarah, James, Steph and Rosanna, I decided to take a spin around the Pantheon. It had been one of my favorite stops last time, and the perfection of that ceiling just never ceases to amaze. As I walked out, I kept checking the obelisk ahead, hoping to see Sarah or James's head. I heard a guy call out my name. It didn't sound like James, though, and when I turned around, I saw ... my xanga friend,
the Chumeister!
Brian and I established a real-life friendship a while back. Once in a while we call each other up when we're in our respective cities. But to see him and Alby unexpectedly in Rome? And to find out they had just flown in from London? Too crazy. We made plans to have dinner the next night.
Our night with Sarah, James, Rosanna and Steph ended up taking us for a bit of a loop. We tried catching a bus to the Colosseum, only to get off at ... well ... whatever it was, it looked like the Colosseum. Except for the offices poking out of the back. Oops. We had to walk all the way back around, smack into a gay rights candlelit march (in the dead of night?). And then we found the real Colosseum and took the subway back to our hotels.
Here's something I realized about Rome in early September: It's just like Taiwan in the spring. It's humid, it's muggy, and there's a strange olfactory combination of incense and body odor. So for day 2, Ian and I decided the theme would be "air conditioning." Museums were the way to go. The National Museum had a photography ban, not that the Spanish tourists draping themselves all over the Discus Thrower paid any attention. There were also at least 3 sculptures featuring Hadrian's boyfriend Antinoos. Young Antinoos drowned in the Nile, and the emperor was so upset he had statues of him erected all over the city. Apparently a lot of them survived. My friend Kaly says they're everywhere, but I only noticed the ones in the museum.
Our next stop was the Capitoline Museums, near the Vittorio Emanuel. To my surprise, we were greeted by a giant banner calling for the relase of Cpl. Gilad Shalit. Wow. That's very aware of them. And kind, since he's been held prisoner for over 3 years now. Also, there were brides everywhere, including one who was actually getting married as opposed to just taking portraits.
Here they let us take the cameras out. Some of the big stuff:
(There was also a giant foot nearby. Ian wouldn't let me even pretend to lick it. So we didn't take a picture.)
Augustus triumphant
The She-Wolf
It was a long walk from the museum to Piazza del Popolo. That long walk took us by a lot of shopping. My favorite store was probably the one devoted to upscale Hello Kitty, but despite the scads of merchandise (and yes, at one point I thought of dropping a ludicrous amount of money on some suede Kitty pumps ...), there was no Italy-themed Kitty merch. Not even one with the Colosseum in the background or something! Your loss, Kitty store. I was willing.
And here we have the picture from dinner -- the entire trip was full of happy occasions and meetings (Jay, Sarah, James), but this one stands out for its unexpectedness: the company, the pasta, the randomness of it all.
To surprises.